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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.